Steaming guts sandwiches

Florence - Septmber 9^th

This entire morning we spent at the Uffizi marveling at the some of the great Renassance masters, which always makes me hungry for Trippa.  I believe this tradition comes from being a poor country, but they love to eat every part of the animal from nose to tail.  I too feel that it is only being respectful to the animal which you sacrificed to eat every part you can and not waist and of it.  One of my favorites dishes is Trippa. It’s actually the cows stomach.  Since cows have 3 stomachs different dishes have evolved around the different stomachs.  In Florence the locals have a tradition of enjoying 2.  One is simply tripe, usually one that looks like a terry cloth towel one cooked for long periods of time (mostly to make it edible, it still has a little chew to it) like a stew with carrots and celery.  The other one is called Lampredotto.  I had never had this one before but new it was a Florentine favorite.  It was recommended to us that the best place in all of Florence was in the Mercado Centrale, a place called Narbone.  So this is where we headed today for lunch.  When we arrived it was starting to fill up with locals and tourists so Linda gets a couple of seats and I head off to fetch the food.  After a short wait, cueing, I’m in the batters box and placing my order.  One tripe sandwich and one lampredotto, a liter of house wine and some marinated artichokes all for 15 euros.  Back to the table with Linda.   I asked for the lampredotto “bagnotto”, which means they dip the bun in all the cooking liquid to soften it.  By now the place is packed.  Nearly every seat taken.  All the seats just as in Mario’s the other day are little stools with no backs.  Probably so they can stuff more butts into the seats.  Everyone is sitting at common tables.  It was so crowed that it was like eating in a phone booth. We dive into our tripe and lampredotto sandwiches.  That Linda is such a good sport.  Not many wives would tolerate guts sandwiches for lunch.  Linda ate most of the Trippa as I had them put salsa piccante on the lampredotto. Linda not a huge fan of piccante.  They were great.  The Trippa was really tender and unctuous, with the a great flavor from being braised in the carrots and celery.  The lampredotto, was a little more sporting with the very mild cows stomach flavor and a little chewier, but not too much.  Both were great, although Linda proclaims after were done that “they are not my favorite”, that’s her way of saying don’t make me eat this again you crazy bastard, you owe me one.  But she’s a great sport and traveling companion.

Trippa and Lampredotto